Walking the Camino: From Baiona to Santiago de Compostela
This Camino was more than just another adventure for me—it was my first couples trip to lead. I’ll be honest, I was nervous. A few last-minute cancellations left our group smaller than expected, just seven of us in the end. But as the days unfolded, I realized something powerful: every single person who came was meant to be there. This trip was perfect in its own way, and I am deeply grateful for each soul who walked beside me.
From the beginning, everyone arrived with open hearts and open minds. Together we laughed, encouraged one another, and leaned on each other during the tough stretches. Each person brought something unique—resilience, independence, humor, support—and every step of the Way was richer because of them.
Walking the Camino is no small thing. It tests your body, spirit, and willpower. But this little Camino family proved daily that small steps lead to great things, that kindness matters, and that joy can be found even in the simplest of moments. Santiago was our destination, but the Camino—the lessons, the courage, the community—will live on in us forever.
And so, with my heart still full, I share our journey with you
Our Journey:
When I imagined leading a Camino journey, I knew one thing: I wanted us to start somewhere beautiful. That’s why our meeting point was the Parador in Baiona, a seaside fortress-turned-hotel that felt like stepping into history. Perched on the Monterreal peninsula, the Parador is surrounded by ancient stone walls and sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Cíes Islands in the distance.
Walking through its courtyards and along the ramparts feels like stepping back in time. This was once a defensive fortress guarding the Galician coast. Today, it’s one of Spain’s most unique Paradors, blending medieval architecture with modern comfort. With its lush gardens, elegant stone corridors, and the endless blue of the sea right outside, it set the perfect stage for what would become an unforgettable week together.
But Baiona is more than just beautiful—it’s historic. In 1493, La Pinta, one of Columbus’s ships, arrived here with the first news of the discovery of the New World, making Baiona the first place in Europe to learn of America’s existence. Today, a replica of the ship rests in the harbor, a reminder of the town’s role in global history. Add to that its charming old town, coastal promenades, and deep pilgrim spirit, and you understand why beginning here felt so meaningful.
Why This Route?
Our Camino experience spanned a few days along the Portuguese Coastal Way, before eventually merging into the Central Route all the way to Santiago.
I chose this path intentionally. I wanted the participants to experience the best of both: the salty breeze and rolling waves of the coast, and the quieter inland sections steeped in vineyards, forests, and centuries of pilgrim history.
And while the official route measured about 128 km, our group logged closer to 147 km. Why? Because the Camino isn’t just the yellow arrows; it’s the detours to cafés, side streets, and little towns where life unfolds. Those extra steps? They became part of our story.
To make the journey gentler, I upgraded most of the hotels. After long days on our feet, there’s nothing like walking into a beautiful property, knowing you can relax, shower, and treat yourself. It became something to look forward to each day.
Beginning in Baiona
Baiona is a town rich in history and charm. We spent a couple of days exploring before our official start: attending Sunday Mass, strolling the old town, and visiting La Pinta, the replica of Columbus’ ship that docked here in 1493, bringing news of the New World.
It was the perfect prelude. A blend of culture, faith, and anticipation.
Day 1: Baiona → Vigo (it was supposed to be approx. 23 km and we walked about 29 km)
We began our walk on Monday, September 1st, under perfect weather. The ocean views were spectacular, reminding us why the Coastal Way is so loved. But like life, beauty gave way to grit: the last stretch into Vigo forced us through commercial sidewalks, shipbuilding yards, and cruise terminals.
Still, the reward at the end was worth it. We checked into Gran Hotel Nagari (a chic spa property), where many booked massages and enjoyed the luxury of staying two nights. The hotel sits in Plaza de Compostela, number 21, right in the heart of Vigo. It’s just a short walk from the Alameda da Praza de Compostela—a tree-lined park area that feels like the green lung of the city—and is only a few minutes’ stroll from major attractions like the Vigo Contemporary Art Museum (MARCO), the old town, lively shopping streets like Príncipe and Urzáiz, and plenty of cafés and restaurants.
The Camino gives you both—the rugged trail and the gift of rest.
Day 2: Vigo → Redondela (approx. 18 km)
The morning greeted us with rain, testing our ponchos and patience. Thankfully, the skies cleared, and by afternoon we arrived in Redondela, known for its two iconic railway viaducts.
On this stretch, we quickly discovered that ponchos were far better than rain jackets. They were longer, easier to slip on and off, and covered our backpacks completely—no need for separate rain covers. They also felt less stuffy than jackets, which can trap heat. If you’re packing for the Camino, trust me: go with the poncho. Your future self (and your backpack) will thank you.
☔ Pro Tip: Ponchos > Rain Jackets: Here is a poncho that was perfect for the journey: ANYOO Hooded Rain Poncho
That evening, we returned to our Vigo hotel for a yoga session… which turned into comedy hour. The instructor dove straight into advanced poses, completely ignoring our Camino-weary bodies. Within minutes, my husband had given up, another pilgrim slipped out, and soon half the class was snoring during relaxation. Only two of us managed to keep up. Lesson learned: next time, I’ll spend that money on drinks instead. 😂
By this point, we had walked nearly 47 km in two days. Our bodies were tired, but our spirits were still strong.
Day 3: Redondela → Pontevedra (approx. 20 km)
This was one of our hardest days. Heavy rain in the morning, sore legs, and fatigue caught up with us. We took a long lunch break off-route, and by the time we arrived in Pontevedra it was late. Again, the rain confirmed that ponchos worked far better than jackets.
Somewhere along the way, though, I also learned another important lesson: sometimes it’s worth adding a little extra weight to your pack. One of the participants had brought a Theragun Mini massage gun—and it was absolute heaven. I’ve always have prided myself on packing light and avoiding anything unnecessary. But after we all had a chance to use it on sore feet and tight calves, I was converted. From now on, this little gadget will always make my travel and hiking packing list. It was a true game-changer for this journey. Thank you Irma.
Still, arriving at the Parador de Pontevedra, a former Renaissance palace, made the struggles fade. Some went out to explore the lively old town, but my husband Mike was limping badly, so we stayed in for dinner at the Parador. Sometimes, rest is the best choice.
Day 4: Pontevedra → Caldas de Reis (approx. 22 km)
This day tested our resilience. Tiredness showed—some participants were sore, some a little cranky (my hubby), and I admit, my encouragement didn’t always land well. I was worried about him, but asking how he felt only seemed to annoy him more. Sometimes, some things (or people) are best left alone. 😂
That afternoon we stumbled upon a little gem—Albergue VinteCatro, just a couple of miles before our hotel. The atmosphere was welcoming, the food was delicious, and the staff made us feel right at home. It quickly became one of those perfect Camino pauses, a reminder that the journey is made richer by the places you least expect.
By then, it had become our ritual to stop a few miles before the finish line—sharing lessons, swapping stories, snacking, sipping drinks, and laughing together. Those moments reminded us that the Camino isn’t only about reaching Santiago; it’s about savoring the in-between, the simple joys that stitch the journey together.
That evening, we arrived in Caldas de Reis, a charming town famous for its thermal springs—a place perfectly suited for weary pilgrims to rest and recharge. We checked into Hotel Lotus, a small but newly renovated property right on the Camino. Though modest in size, it was spotless, comfortable, and thoughtfully updated. The next morning, their generous breakfast gave us exactly the fuel we needed to set out strong on our fifth day.
Day 5: Caldas de Reis → Padrón (approx. 18 km)
Though shorter in distance, our fifth day was anything but dull. The Camino led us along charming brick-paved roads, shaded forest paths, and over an old stone bridge that felt like it had carried pilgrims for centuries. The scenery was alive with animals—horses grazing in fields, curious cats darting across our path, friendly dogs, and even flocks of sheep that seemed to acknowledge us as fellow travelers.
One of the highlights of the day was meeting María de Xacobe, a local author who set up a small stand to greet pilgrims. She shared her series of books, La Higuera Yerma, which follows the story of a young woman full of dreams, living in 19th-century rural Galicia. For those who can read Spanish, it offers a beautiful glimpse into the history and spirit of this region. Encounters like this reminded us how the Camino is not just about landscapes—it’s about the people whose lives are woven into its path.
By now, however, the aches were real. My husband’s legs hurt badly, and in an attempt to lighten the mood, I played Eye of the Tiger—only to learn he hates that song. (Note to self: sometimes encouragement means silence. 😅)
That evening, we arrived in Padrón, a town deeply connected to the legend of Santiago. Tradition says the Apostle’s body was brought here by boat, making it one of the most important historic stops along the Way. We stayed at Hotel Corona de Padrón, a small but comfortable hotel located right along the Camino. Its convenient location meant we could walk straight in from the trail, rest up, and easily head out to explore the town.
Padrón is also famous for its pimientos de Padrón—small green peppers, most mild but with the occasional spicy surprise. Mike and I tried some that evening, and they were absolutely delicious, the perfect reward after a long day on our feet. While the rest of the group went out for dinner, Mike wisely stayed back to recover, and I wandered through town, grateful for the chance to savor both its flavors and its history.
That evening we also agreed: our final day would begin early. With a long walk ahead, we wanted to reach Santiago at a decent time—ready to celebrate not just the destination, but the incredible journey that had brought us there.
Day 6: Padrón → Santiago de Compostela (approx. 25 km)
There’s something about the final day on the Camino that feels different from all the others. The anticipation hums in your chest from the moment you wake up. Every step feels heavy with reflection yet light with excitement. You’re so close to the end, yet you don’t want the journey to be over. The Camino teaches you to embrace the “in-between,” but on this day, the pull of Santiago is undeniable.
We left early, at 7 a.m., while the skies were still dark. Excitement carried us forward through vineyards heavy with grapes, rolling farmland, and quiet villages just beginning to stir awake. Along the way I stopped to greet every animal I saw—cats lounging on stone walls, playful dogs, cows and horses grazing, goats and sheep in their pastures, even chickens and geese that seemed to announce our arrival. Each day along the Camino had its own magic, and this final one was no exception.
We were also treated to the sound of musicians playing along the route, their melodies drifting through the air like a soundtrack to our last steps. It felt as if the Camino itself was celebrating with us.
Our final pause was at a little bar on the edge of Santiago. We raised our glasses in a simple toast, savoring one last Camino moment together before the finish line.
By 4:30 p.m., we stepped into the Plaza del Obradoiro, the grand square where the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela rises in all its splendor. Pilgrims filled the plaza, some crying, some laughing, some embracing, all united by the shared journey. The sight of the cathedral’s spires stopped us in our tracks—tears, joy, relief, gratitude, and pride all mingling together. We hugged, celebrated, and captured the moment with photos. Before heading to our hotel, we eagerly walked over to the Pilgrim’s Office to receive our Compostela certificates, a tangible proof of our journey and a memento we will cherish forever.
We stayed at the Parador de Santiago de Compostela, also known as the Hostal dos Reis Católicos. Located in the Plaza del Obradoiro, right beside the cathedral, it is one of the oldest and most iconic hotels in the world. Founded in 1499 by the Catholic Monarchs as a Royal Hospital to care for weary pilgrims, it has welcomed travelers for more than five centuries. Today, the building preserves its Plateresque façade, four elegant cloisters, vaulted corridors, and even a small museum within its walls. Staying here felt like stepping back into history, walking the same halls where countless pilgrims before us had found rest.
After settling in and cleaning up, we attended the 7:30 p.m. Pilgrim Mass. Though we didn’t witness the Botafumeiro swing this time, the mass was still deeply moving—a spiritual closing chapter to our walk.
That evening, we gathered for a farewell dinner at the Parador’s main restaurant, reflecting on the lessons learned, the laughter shared, and the memories made. It was bittersweet! Joy in completing the journey, but sadness that it had come to an end. Yet we all knew the Camino doesn’t truly end in Santiago; it continues to live on in the lessons, friendships, and courage we carry forward.
Lessons from the Camino
Every day of the Camino taught us something.
Resilience: You are stronger than you think, even when your body begs you to stop.
Humor: Sometimes, the only way through is to laugh (especially during failed yoga sessions).
Community: Sharing food, drinks, and stories is just as meaningful as walking the miles.
Presence: The Camino reminds you to stop for animals, notice the scenery, and enjoy the journey—not just the destination.
Final Reflection
Walking the Camino de Santiago isn’t just a physical journey. It’s a mirror for life. Some stretches are breathtakingly beautiful; others are hard, messy, or uncomfortable. But each step matters, each mile teaches, and at the end, you realize you’ve not only walked across Spain—you’ve walked into a deeper version of yourself.
For our group, the Camino was more than a walk. It was a shared experience of laughter, struggle, encouragement, and gratitude. And though our time together ended in Santiago, the Camino will continue walking with us long after the miles are behind us.
Thinking about walking the Camino yourself? Save this post for inspiration, share it with a fellow dreamer, and keep following along. I’ll be sharing tips, gear guides, and reflections to help you plan your own pilgrimage.
